Pashmina shawls gained much prominence in the days of the Mughal Empire as objects of rank and nobility. Babur first established the practice of giving khilat – giving ‘robes of honour’ – in 1526 to members of his court for their devoted service, high achievements or as a mark of royal favour. A khilat could be a set of clothes consisting of turban, coat , gown, trousers, shirts etc. all of which could be made of Pashmina wool.
Upon the complete conquest of Kashmir in 1568 by Akbar, a pair of pashmina shawls were an integral part of a khilat ceremony. Other emperors of the time, such as the Safavid and Qajars, also wore and gifted pashmina shawls within their political circles
Pahsmina shawls and blankets were indicators of wealth and part of a rich woman’s dowry in India, Nepal and Pakistan. These shawls acquired the status of heirlooms that would be inherited instead of being purchased as it was considered too expensive to buy. Through extensive trade with Indian, the shawls made their way to Europe where they became an almost instant hit.
Through the enthusiastic use by Empress Joséphine – the wife of Napoleon Bonaparte – the pashmina shawl gained status as a fashion icon. The shawls suited the French well as they provided the necessary warmth, while adding the visual appeal to white French gowns. It became a class marker in 19th century French society because of its rich look, artistic qualities and was made of expensive material.
